5.29.2013

神戶甜點推介 - TOOTH TOOTH

Tooth Tooth是很多日本人都推介的神戶甜點店,瀏覽過網頁,被其漂亮的蛋糕吸引,位置亦方便,逛元町的時會經過,遂將其納入行程表內。


原本來這裡,是為了蛋糕,但人龍實在長,在神戶才留一天,還是外賣算了。蛋糕不比燒菓子吸引,在瀏覽店內產品時,Canelé抓住我的目光了。Canelé是我最喜歡的法國甜點之一(有我不喜歡的法式甜點嗎?XP),甚考功夫。我俯身細看其外層,烤得深棕色又有光澤,漂亮極了,連CM都忍不住加入戰團。
 





買回家的Canelé最好當日食,否則外層會受潮變腍,失去應有口感。這個Canelé是我在台、日食過最好的,甚至比巴黎某些出品更出色。製作canelé時,需要先在模具掃上蜜蠟,而且最好用上銅模,傳熱和降溫均較快。這個canelé極為標準,外層烤得香脆,充滿焦香,內裡濕潤,軟綿帶點韌勁,與外層形成對比。雲呢拿和酒香十足,看到點點雲呢拿籽,就知道那香氣清新不人工。之前在不同地方也嚐過出色的canelé,但都不及這個合我心水,因為它不僅質地標準,而且香氣細緻,外層焦香和內層的酒香都很突出,兩種味道交織起來,實在教我著迷。對cm來說,酒香則太重,沒有我那麼欣賞,但canelé就是應該有酒香的嘛~﹗在大阪的最後一天,我也忍不住到位於梅田Isetan的分店再買來一飽口腹之慾。

看到琳琅滿目的燒菓子,賣相精美,烘得漂亮,很辛苦才選到數款我最喜歡的。
 


Gallette Bretonne
甫打開包裝,烤香的牛油味撲鼻而來,我早餐用來配咖啡,實屬絕配~ 牛油味雖不及Le Bihan般濃郁滿瀉,但絕對夠香濃,質感結實帶脆,特別愛其焦香味。小小一件不會增添罪惡感 : )



Madeleine
雖然由日本回來已一星期多了,蛋糕仍舊鬆軟濕潤,牛油香氣十足,不比法國的遜色,相信剛出爐的話一定好食得很。



Florentine是我最愛的法式pastry之一,簡單來說,就是牛油曲奇上再加caramelized的杏仁片。Tooth Tooth出色的canelé為我對其法式pastry的信心打下支強心針,結果當然沒令我失望~
焦糖杏仁片光澤誘人,散發陣陣的杏仁清香,下面的牛油曲奇極為鬆化,帶著濃郁的牛油香,於口腔歷久不散。其曲奇層較Rechercher的出品厚,與焦糖杏仁片的比例約為1:2,吃起來更具質感,更勝一籌,高度推介~



Chocolate Financier
單看外表,已有點擔心會太乾,吃起來的確稍為乾身,邊位帶脆,中間僅微濕,猶幸朱古力味濃郁又不會過甜,尚算不俗。不過相比其他出品,這financier就較普通了。





雖然是次未能一嚐其蛋糕(賣相不算極精緻嘛~),但燒菓子整體的水準都很出色,florentinecanele更拍得上巴黎著名甜品店的水準,難怪不少介紹神戶甜點的書籍都有其蹤影。再來神戶的話,必定再訪~!

http://www.toothtooth.com/

Food: wwwwwwww
Service:wwwwwww
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5.27.2013

Even better with the new Head Chef @ The Press Room



I always envy those who live in Hollywood Road as not only can they enjoy some fascinating antique shops nearby but also most of my favourite restaurants. Pressroom is just one of them. I was told that a new chef, who had served in Hong Kong Club, has become the head chef of Pressroom. Now that is something!

At the beginning, I was lavishly treated with three salad dishes: Seared scallop salad, Nicoise salad, and Salade de Roquette au Chèvre, which was actually arugula and goat cheese salad. Many people may think that no special skills are required in preparing salads. This is cannot be more wrong.  The quality of the chemmendable. What impressed me most were the homemade dressings. The Beurre blanc (buttered white wine vinaigrette) of the seared scallop salad, the artichoke and green vinaigrette of tese was so high and the sear of scallop and tuna so beautiful that they were certainly cohe Salade de Roquette au Chèvre, and the pommery mustard vinaigrette of the Nicoise were all nothing but spectacular. Not many chefs take the extra mile to make a good salad dressing, and the one in Pressroom has nailed it. After trying these salads, I had full confidence in the coming dishes.
Seared scallop salad
Seared scallop salad

Salade de Roquette au Chèvre
We also had Black mussel meunière and truffle asparagus when the salads were being served. The perfectly cooked mussels were elevated by a cream sauce that was really a gem. There was yet another example to show the chef's attention to detail and his expert handling of sauce. The aromatic and crunchy truffle asparagus was really brought to a new level by the herb sauce that went with it. You do not want to miss it, I assure you. 

How could I miss confit duck in May, Le French GourMay? The Pressrooms version came with sliced duck breast. Covered by the crispy duck skin, the duck meat was lean and quite tender, but it was slightly overcooked and under-seasoned to my taste.

The catch of the day was sea bream. It was covered with sea salt and baked, and then with olive oil drizzled on top. It is a common cooking method that keeps the moisture and taste of a good catch, but it is not widely used in Hong Kong. I once had it at 10 Greek Street in London and was happy to see this again here. I liked the use of lemon juice and fennel salad that kept the dish light and inviting. It seems that the chef understood that simple ingredients such as sea salt, olive oil and lemon juice, if competently handled, would be suffice. Only if the fish was tenderer, the dish would be wonderful.

I was lucky enough to have several awesome veal dishes (including at Pressroom) before turning to green diet (just for several weeks, though). The veal tenderloin was tender and juicy. A little sea salt would make it a good main course, but the chef offered an even better option - a rich mushroom and pommery sauce. 

With much expectation, I was excited to see the orange red lobster risotto. The presentation, with a lobster lying in a bed of risotto, made me mouth-watering. The lobster and sauce were so delicious that you would like to have a bowl of lobster bisque as well. Like many other restaurants in HK, the chef deliberately cooked the risotto for a longer time to suit the taste of HK people. I wish he had given me a chewier one, though. If you prefer chewier risotto, remember to make a request upon ordering. 

Among the five main dishes we had, the Dover Sole Grenobloise was my favourite. The fish was common in Britain, but the chef sautéed it with meunière sauce, a classic cooking method in French Bistros. I find that making fun with the old Anglo-French rivalry is superfluous here as the method worked so well... I loved the great balance of butter and lemon juice and enjoyed the firm and flavourful flesh of the fish. I alone ate one-third of it.

While keeping the already-popular dishes, the new head chef also introduced some new ones. The pistachio crème brulee and Tarte Tartin were both renowned desserts in Pressroom; there was nothing to complain about their taste and flavour, but both of them could be softer in texture, especially the pear.

 
As for the new creations, the chocolate trio was a near miss. The white chocolate mousse was too watery; the hot chocolate latte was okay but blend; the salted dark chocolate truffle was overwhelmingly sweet. I missed the rich and smooth Chocolate Marquise very much, though. 

However, the chef still convinced me that he could make good desserts. Another new creation, with the long-winded title of Verrine Mascarpone au Sorbet de fruit de la Passion, was successful. It was somehow similar to an Eton Mess, but richer in taste. A banana cake and walnut topped with mascarpone, homemade berries compote, and a scoop of ice-cream was definitely a good combination for summer. I put my spoon from the ice-cream deep down to the bottom, so that I could have all the layers in a bite. As expected, all the ingredients worked like a well-organized and expertly-led orchestra. I could not help but finishing it spoon after spoon. 

Pressroom has been offering decent food with a consistent quality and a reasonable price. It is even better with the new head chef, who has introduced several impressive dishes. Overall, I particularly liked his handling of sauces. I certainly look forward to seeing more stunning dishes designed by him.

The Press Room
108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan

Food: wwwwwww
Service:wwwwwww
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