12.26.2012

情意結 @ 永康街Flat White



在網路上看到台北永康街都有家咖啡店名叫Flat White,我就毫不猶豫地將它放進我2012台北之行的行程表上。原因是倫敦的Flat White是我每次到倫敦,我都要探望的老朋友。看到同名的咖啡店,沒有不到訪的道理吧~

咖啡店外的牆和地板都是灰色的,logo用上我最愛的黑、白、灰,設計簡約,感覺真的跟倫敦的很像,未知店主是否跟我一樣,喜歡倫敦的Flat White?

從外面看到木製的窗框已叫我滿心歡喜,進店後看到大木枱更叫我興奮。對﹗我就是對木家具有情意結。陽光從落地窗透進來,舒服得很。

店內其實不許拍照,我還來不及拍下店內裝潢,便被喝止了,只能拍下兩張照片。

剛才吃得飽飽,而且蛋糕賣相不吸引的緣故,只點杯咖啡喝。就如首次到倫敦的Flat White時,今次也點杯Flat White試試看。
奶泡打得夠flat,比例亦對辦,只是用上latte的杯,感覺不夠專業。Espresso base帶點甜,酸度不明顯,挺適合用來沖奶類咖啡的。整體感覺不錯,但就沒有驚艷的感覺。

在大木枱前喝著flat white,看到陽光在桌面形成的光暗對比,令我更想念那天倫敦的早上,從flat white買了杯咖啡後,和CM手挽手,悠然地步行到Green Park。執筆至此,我的心又飛到英國去了。2013年快點來到﹗我要準備每年的英倫遊。

Café Flat White 北市永康街41巷12號


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12.23.2012

不敗的燒鵝 @ 天鴻


元朗之旅最後一站來到期待已久的天鴻,波記雖叫我驚嘆,但不少朋友說天鴻更好,讓我心癢難耐。是日既千里迢迢來到元朗,怎能不到此一遊呢?

到達時間尚早,不用等位。未進店內,便傳來陣陣令人垂涎的燒味香氣,除了那油潤發亮的燒鵝,叉燒都很吸引,再細看餐牌,又被醉雞誘惑。不僅我三心兩意,向來堅定的CM都一樣,最終決定要燒鵝和醉雞,忍痛割捨CM最愛的叉燒。

醉雞先到,未食便嗅到紹興酒香,酒味明顯卻不嗆喉,隱約帶點甜味,味道一流。雞肉更是結實之餘,卻仍保持嫩滑,至於雞味,在香港就別太強求了。
燒鵝當然是要了下「裝」。與波記相比,同樣皮脆肉嫩,但這裡的出品多了陣鵝香,少了份肥膩,更為出色。幸好天鴻離我家甚遠,否則CM肯定未到中年就發福。
 
元朗之旅的三站都叫人回味,西鐵其實亦挺方便,看來再訪之期亦不遠矣。


天鴻燒鵝飯店
元朗建業街88號仁義大廈地下D舖 

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12.08.2012

Taste of Tradition @ The Pawn



Everyone who knows me long enough can easily tell that I am an unapologizing Anglophile and a history enthusiast. The Pawn is a historical heritage site that encapsulates the splendor of the Old Hong Kong while serving good British food. Naturally I would not miss it, but for some reason I had not visited the place until I was invited to taste its new menu... I am glad that the chef of the Pawn allowed us to try some of the best British dishes.

To begin with, we had an air-dried duck with poached pear and pistachio. The air-dried duck was cured before dried, and had its rich and delicate flavour fully retained. It went well with the sweet pear and the pistachio was a nice touch.
I particularly liked the salt
 

The appetizer was smoked salmon with lemon puree and Jerusalem artichoke. According to the chef, the salmon was wet smoked so that the moisture of the fillets would be retained. It is a really time consuming method. While I loved its smoky taste, the fillet was a bit overcooked. The lemon puree was refreshing, though. I looked around and realized that the salmon fillets of my companion did not look the same. It should be smokey outside with a pink interior. It would be perfect if the quality of the dishes can be more consistent.

After the pear and salmon, the British dishes took over. Cock-a-Leekie soup is a Scottish dish that could trace its origin back to the 15th century. While it is common to add potatoes to make it thicker, the Pawn’s version had no potatoes but kept the original ingredients such as chicken stock, chicken breasts, leeks and prune. The broth was strong and full of chicken flavour. Although some commented that the soup was under-seasoned, I found it alright and would certainly like to have one before having the heavy main dishes.

Five wooden boards of braised lamb shoulder on the table, shoulder to shoulder, was indeed an awesome sight. We kept taking pictures of them as if we were in front of David Beckham. 

I am not a great fan of mutton, but that night I had a large piece of it. It was superbly tender and the fat between the fleshes melted in a tantalizing way. Its robust flavour allowed it to be served alone without the sticky red currant sauce. The side dishes, including Yorkshire pudding and cauliflower cheese, were very British. The pudding was even better than the one I had at Yorkshire Pudding. As for the cauliflower cheese, I would like to have a stronger cheese added.

The chef was then kind enough (or cruel? Given we already had so much good food) to let us try a few plates of hanger steak with smoked mash potatoes. When I first visited another restaurant of this group, I was already impressed by its high quality hanger steak. The one we had that night was splendid, and it was also affordable! The smooth smoked mash was an apt replacement of fries. I would definitely come back for it.

I wondered what kind of traditional desserts (sticky toffee pudding? Banoffee pie?) the chef was going to serve. Instead of serving the common and popular British desserts, he offered Eton Mess, a creamy mixture of raspberry and toasted meringue. It is a traditional dish of Eton College that would be served after the annual cricket match against Winchester College. While I was not fortunate enough to study at that illustrious institution, I was lucky enough to have tried one here, although I am in no position to judge whether it was “authentic” or not (I guess only a handful of distinguished/notorious person in Hong Kong who actually tasted the real one can judge that). Anyway, unlike many British desserts, it was surprisingly light and refreshing. I particularly liked the idea of adding aromatic Thai basil to it, giving a twist to the tradition.
















  



It was a fantastic night for an Anglophile like me. What is better than tasting some of the best British dishes inside an authentic historical heritage? The Pawn is a very successful example of reusing historical building in a sustainable way, though I may want to point out that it did not blend very well into the local community. Still, the structure and its ambience blends well with the dishes it served. I will definitely come back and see if I can have my most-wanted British food like fish and chips, scone and perhaps Victoria sponge. 

The Pawn
2-3/F, 62 Johnston Road, Wan Chai


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