12.23.2012

不敗的燒鵝 @ 天鴻


元朗之旅最後一站來到期待已久的天鴻,波記雖叫我驚嘆,但不少朋友說天鴻更好,讓我心癢難耐。是日既千里迢迢來到元朗,怎能不到此一遊呢?

到達時間尚早,不用等位。未進店內,便傳來陣陣令人垂涎的燒味香氣,除了那油潤發亮的燒鵝,叉燒都很吸引,再細看餐牌,又被醉雞誘惑。不僅我三心兩意,向來堅定的CM都一樣,最終決定要燒鵝和醉雞,忍痛割捨CM最愛的叉燒。

醉雞先到,未食便嗅到紹興酒香,酒味明顯卻不嗆喉,隱約帶點甜味,味道一流。雞肉更是結實之餘,卻仍保持嫩滑,至於雞味,在香港就別太強求了。
燒鵝當然是要了下「裝」。與波記相比,同樣皮脆肉嫩,但這裡的出品多了陣鵝香,少了份肥膩,更為出色。幸好天鴻離我家甚遠,否則CM肯定未到中年就發福。
 
元朗之旅的三站都叫人回味,西鐵其實亦挺方便,看來再訪之期亦不遠矣。


天鴻燒鵝飯店
元朗建業街88號仁義大廈地下D舖 

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12.08.2012

Taste of Tradition @ The Pawn



Everyone who knows me long enough can easily tell that I am an unapologizing Anglophile and a history enthusiast. The Pawn is a historical heritage site that encapsulates the splendor of the Old Hong Kong while serving good British food. Naturally I would not miss it, but for some reason I had not visited the place until I was invited to taste its new menu... I am glad that the chef of the Pawn allowed us to try some of the best British dishes.

To begin with, we had an air-dried duck with poached pear and pistachio. The air-dried duck was cured before dried, and had its rich and delicate flavour fully retained. It went well with the sweet pear and the pistachio was a nice touch.
I particularly liked the salt
 

The appetizer was smoked salmon with lemon puree and Jerusalem artichoke. According to the chef, the salmon was wet smoked so that the moisture of the fillets would be retained. It is a really time consuming method. While I loved its smoky taste, the fillet was a bit overcooked. The lemon puree was refreshing, though. I looked around and realized that the salmon fillets of my companion did not look the same. It should be smokey outside with a pink interior. It would be perfect if the quality of the dishes can be more consistent.

After the pear and salmon, the British dishes took over. Cock-a-Leekie soup is a Scottish dish that could trace its origin back to the 15th century. While it is common to add potatoes to make it thicker, the Pawn’s version had no potatoes but kept the original ingredients such as chicken stock, chicken breasts, leeks and prune. The broth was strong and full of chicken flavour. Although some commented that the soup was under-seasoned, I found it alright and would certainly like to have one before having the heavy main dishes.

Five wooden boards of braised lamb shoulder on the table, shoulder to shoulder, was indeed an awesome sight. We kept taking pictures of them as if we were in front of David Beckham. 

I am not a great fan of mutton, but that night I had a large piece of it. It was superbly tender and the fat between the fleshes melted in a tantalizing way. Its robust flavour allowed it to be served alone without the sticky red currant sauce. The side dishes, including Yorkshire pudding and cauliflower cheese, were very British. The pudding was even better than the one I had at Yorkshire Pudding. As for the cauliflower cheese, I would like to have a stronger cheese added.

The chef was then kind enough (or cruel? Given we already had so much good food) to let us try a few plates of hanger steak with smoked mash potatoes. When I first visited another restaurant of this group, I was already impressed by its high quality hanger steak. The one we had that night was splendid, and it was also affordable! The smooth smoked mash was an apt replacement of fries. I would definitely come back for it.

I wondered what kind of traditional desserts (sticky toffee pudding? Banoffee pie?) the chef was going to serve. Instead of serving the common and popular British desserts, he offered Eton Mess, a creamy mixture of raspberry and toasted meringue. It is a traditional dish of Eton College that would be served after the annual cricket match against Winchester College. While I was not fortunate enough to study at that illustrious institution, I was lucky enough to have tried one here, although I am in no position to judge whether it was “authentic” or not (I guess only a handful of distinguished/notorious person in Hong Kong who actually tasted the real one can judge that). Anyway, unlike many British desserts, it was surprisingly light and refreshing. I particularly liked the idea of adding aromatic Thai basil to it, giving a twist to the tradition.
















  



It was a fantastic night for an Anglophile like me. What is better than tasting some of the best British dishes inside an authentic historical heritage? The Pawn is a very successful example of reusing historical building in a sustainable way, though I may want to point out that it did not blend very well into the local community. Still, the structure and its ambience blends well with the dishes it served. I will definitely come back and see if I can have my most-wanted British food like fish and chips, scone and perhaps Victoria sponge. 

The Pawn
2-3/F, 62 Johnston Road, Wan Chai


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11.18.2012

Amazing night out with friends @ Bistro du Vin



French “bistros” serve affordable home style dishes, and are more casual and down to earth compare to the brasseries. The bistros are more suitable for a group of friends than a romantic table-for-two. The exceptional food served at Piccolo gave me much confidence in Bistro du Vin as they were owned by the same boss. My friends and I could not wait to see if this bistro could remind me of my happy days in Paris.


I missed the Baguette in Paris
We started with a cold cut platter that consisted of pork pâté, duck sausage, and duck rillettes. I was happy and relieved to find that the pâté and duck sausage were not as oily as I thought they would be. The texture of pâté resembled terrine, though, and it was difficult to spread it on bread. As for the duck sausage and rillettes, it would be better the duck flavour was stronger. The smooth and soft rillettes was the best among the three, just more herbs and seasonings would bring it to perfection.

 



















 Bone marrow with escargots was a classic combination. I did not spend much time taking pictures this time as they taste better before getting cold, perhaps more so than other dishes. It seems that the dish would be even better if the bone marrow were cooked for a bit longer so that its fat, which was perfect for toasts, could be melted more thoroughly. Still, the dish was finished by the party within five minutes. I was lucky to have a fair share of it. 
The marrow did not melt




















 The blood sausages at Bistro were shipped directly from France. Its taste was pretty light and the dish could be finished by one without feeling too full. The seasonings of the potatoes and sauerkrauts were tuned down to match the sausage, I suppose? This showed the chef’s attention to detail.



 
















Before having the main dishes, we had an onion soup. I can still recall its sweet and cheesy taste.

We picked an easy drinking Beaujolais for the main dishes. 
I really liked the squids served that night. I opted for the bouillabaisse but it was not available. Instead, the chef offered fresh squids from local market and suggested that they would be nice to be stir fried with herbs and garlic. It is difficult to go wrong with fresh ingredients. It was indeed a dish cooked with heart!
Another bright spot of the night was the braised beef cheek that was so tender that it could melt in my mouth. Hardly a beef-eater I am, but I still ate lump after lump...

Two near-misses followed the impressive beef cheek, however. The crispy suckling pig confit was a twist of the classic French duck leg confit, but the “crispy” pig skin failed to live up to its name. The lamb shrank was slightly overcooked.


 












Mash and sauerkraut were also served with the main dishes. The sauerkraut was rich in flavour; the mash was rather plain but still good with the sauce. 
We had a plate of nice madeleine which were moist inside and had crispy crusts. Their butter taste was just right to allow me to indulge in it without feeling too guilty. The souffle and French apple tart were also worth trying. The latter brought a fresh end to this lovely meal. 



 















 




















So we had a number of well-executed French classic dishes. Though not as impressive as the pizzas at the Piccolo's, the dishes were all decent. A little fine tuning would bring it them to yet another level. The chef's style also suits me well as I don't like too heavy taste. I would definitely come back to try the bouillabaisse.

Bistro du Vin
Shop 1D, Davis Street, Kennedy Town, Western District


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